Post by sired8 on Jan 26, 2010 17:01:34 GMT -5
When I first started I had the pleasure of using Simpson's Beaufort B4 Pure Badger. JimR ( easternsmooththestore.blogspot.com/ ) had referred me to Gary at shoeboxshaveshop and my search ensued. I didn't really have brush size in mind so I have humble set of brushes. To date, I fancy small to mid-size brushes.
I know this will be quite a feat but that's what so delicious about it. That said from time to time I'll be including the brush craftsmanship, lathering, tip softness, bristle stiffness, knot density and overall impression. Further, if I can spare time
I'll attempt to kill two birds with one stone and provide feedback with regards to soap or cream's texture, latherability, cushion, moisturizing effects and overall impression.
I included some badgers as well.
In limited experience, smaller brushes actually work better. It's simply easier to get the water/cream ratio right thus enabling you to lather up without making a bloody mess everywhere,
and you don't end up rinsing more cream down the drain than you used for the shave.
Since I started using boar regularly, I felt it's the best tool for soaps, owing to its scrubbing ability with soft-tipped bristle. People have said that badger works better with creams.
I believe boar is not only superior with soaps, but is also the best tool for creams.
Having re-read Zach's well written intro to boar, and in addition to noting some of his commentary on using boar with creams, all of which are excellent by the way-he notes that:
"Boar brushes hold less water. Why is this an advantage? Because even boar brushes hold more water than you will need, even boar brushes must be allowed to drain some water, or allowed some excess water to be shaken off. Too much water in the mix is the number one problem with bad lather. You’re far less likely to have this problem, simply by using a boar bristle brush. Stated more plainly: if a boar brush can hold too much water for lathering, and a badger brushes can hold WAY too much water, then the ability to hold more water becomes a risk to your lather."
This is essential and was root of what often frustrated me to no end about lathering creams-the brush must be drier than with soap, since there's already more moisture in the lathering agent, and since excess water gets the lather going too quickly, resulting in very bubbly, wet lather that looks like airy and therefore vanishes from the face within seconds, and doesn't provide much glide or slickness while it's there.
"Plan on using soap with your boar and lathering directly on the puck; if you plan to use cream, plan on using a mug or lathering in your hand."
Many people prefer to bowl lather then there are those who find face-lathering better. Personally have yet to try face-lathering with creams. But it's been discussed to have been rather bit messy-even with boar. I use bowl or mugh in general. Due to fact the bristles aren't as flaccid as badger hair, there is less likelihood of driving air into the lather. Therefore, you can lather all day long in a bowl with a boar brush and wind up with strong lather. Further, if you find that your lather is too dry-perhaps much of the brush was shook before beginning the lather process. As they say it's always easy to add water but not other way around.
If you have a mug in which to rest the brush bristles-down, you will have less evaporation, which is what creates the "lather-eating" effect boar brushes are infamous for: the bristles absorb liquid and some of the cream as they dry out. By having the bristles rest in lather facing down, you reduce the evaporation effect and are less likely to need to add water or additional cream as the shave goes on.
Further, it's generally believed that Omega Pro brushes as well as 310xx series work great due to their size, which allows them to hold onto plenty lather without so much as drying or evaporating.
I'm not trying to convert any zealous badger fan more so provide information as well as gain experience with these brushes.
I haven't used much creams as I'm typically soap guy but
I have tried a variety of methods for producing, adding, subtracting, preserving, heating, and applying water and lather.
I have never had better, stronger lather than I get with boar and I can now replicate the lather with soaps and creams alike, with or without a scuttle or bowl, and have plenty of lather for 3-4 passes.
There is tendency to think of brushes as soap brushes or cream brushes, and in that aspect most would place boar with soap while badger with cream.
In summation, boar without question is better with both soaps and creams than its badger counterpart. Nevertheless, I still like and will continue to use badger in my rotation. Boar in general will be the work horse.
Here's a video by Zach demonstrating
the amount of water boar and badger hold. The main point here is that, while badger certainly holds more water
than boar, it does not hold on to it the way boar would.
Dry
Col. Conk Pure by Vulfix 0.16
Omega 49 Boar 0.14
Wet
Col. Conk > 0.20
Omega 49 > 0.18
Damp
Omega 49 > 0.16
Col. Conk > 0.16
Absorbtion
Omega 49 > 0.02
Col. Conk > 0.0
Mike custom group ( www.customk9gear.com/ )
birdeye
angle
front
Brushes
Boar
Custom by Mike
Pawn Cocobolo Ebony
Ht: 107 mm Loft: 60 mm Base: 67 mm Knot: 18 mm
Cocobolo short brush
Ht: 105 mm Loft: 60 mm Base: 45 mm Knot: 20 mm
Laminated wood ( pending knot )
Ht: NA mm Loft: NA mm Base: 50 mm Knot: mm
Boreal #323 - THE EXFOLIATOR - Banded Boar - 4
Boreal #977 - Pro Model
BOREAL 979 - Banded Boar
HJM
Koh-I-Noor #077J Banded Boar
Omega #10275 Banded Boar - 2
Omega #21047 Banded Boar - 3
Omega #31020 Banded Boar
Omega #31025 Banded Boar
Omega #31064 Banded Boar
Omega #31703 Banded Boar
Omega #40033 - Mighty Midget - 2
Omega #50014 - TurnBack Travel Brush
Omega #50068 "Bambino" Boar - 2
Omega #71278 - Commemorative Boar Ltd Ed.
Omega #80257 Banded Boar
Omega #80265 Banded Boar
Omega #31054 81054 - Banded Boar
Omega #31056 81056 Banded Boar
Semogue 1470 Shaving Brush
Van Der Hagen
Badger
Custom by Mike - 3
Specs:
From Miguel at www.customk9gear.com/
MM928 Silver
The black veined rook is made of Black and white ebony and measures the tallest at 3 3/4
HT: 157mm Loft: 58mm Base: 99mm Knot: 22mm
MM928 Silver
The red and goldish/tan rook with reddish veining measures 3 1/2 and is made of Marble wood ( though I may have mislabeled it as cheaper zebra wood) .
HT: 151mm Loft: 62mm Base: 89mm Knot: 24mm
MM928 Silver
the last one is made of beautiful and expensive Holy Land Olive wood and measures 3 1/4inches and has a small bocote inlay on its base.
HT: 147mm Loft: 62mm Base: 85mm Knot: 26mm
Omega SilverTip #599
Omega SilverTip #615
Simpsons BEAUFORT - Pure Badger Shaving Brush
Simpsons CASE - Best Badger
Simpsons WEE SCOT - Best Badger Shaving Brush
Vulfix 404 Grosvenor Mixed Badger and Boar Shaving Brush
Vulfix #2273 Super Badger Travel
Vulfix 2006 - Mixed Badger and Boar Loft
Boar: 32
Badger: 11 ( 5 Best/Silver, 2 Best, 2 Mixed loft, 1 Pure )
Total = 43 ( 53 w/ multiples )
The soaps:
Col. Conk Bayrum
De Vergulde Hand
Dr. Harris
Kell's
Mitchell's Wool Fat
Ogallala Bay Rum
Olivia ( www.olivia-seife.de/ )
TABAC
The Gentleman's Quarter ( TGQ )
The Shave Den Subzero
Valobra Menthol
Van Der Hagen
William Marvy
The creams:
Alraz the Atom Bomb
CarrieM
C.O. Bigelow
Olivia
Taylor of Old Bond Street
The Shave Den Subzero
The Cremo Cream
Might be acquiring few soaps here and there and add accordingly.
I know this will be quite a feat but that's what so delicious about it. That said from time to time I'll be including the brush craftsmanship, lathering, tip softness, bristle stiffness, knot density and overall impression. Further, if I can spare time
I'll attempt to kill two birds with one stone and provide feedback with regards to soap or cream's texture, latherability, cushion, moisturizing effects and overall impression.
I included some badgers as well.
In limited experience, smaller brushes actually work better. It's simply easier to get the water/cream ratio right thus enabling you to lather up without making a bloody mess everywhere,
and you don't end up rinsing more cream down the drain than you used for the shave.
Since I started using boar regularly, I felt it's the best tool for soaps, owing to its scrubbing ability with soft-tipped bristle. People have said that badger works better with creams.
I believe boar is not only superior with soaps, but is also the best tool for creams.
Having re-read Zach's well written intro to boar, and in addition to noting some of his commentary on using boar with creams, all of which are excellent by the way-he notes that:
"Boar brushes hold less water. Why is this an advantage? Because even boar brushes hold more water than you will need, even boar brushes must be allowed to drain some water, or allowed some excess water to be shaken off. Too much water in the mix is the number one problem with bad lather. You’re far less likely to have this problem, simply by using a boar bristle brush. Stated more plainly: if a boar brush can hold too much water for lathering, and a badger brushes can hold WAY too much water, then the ability to hold more water becomes a risk to your lather."
This is essential and was root of what often frustrated me to no end about lathering creams-the brush must be drier than with soap, since there's already more moisture in the lathering agent, and since excess water gets the lather going too quickly, resulting in very bubbly, wet lather that looks like airy and therefore vanishes from the face within seconds, and doesn't provide much glide or slickness while it's there.
"Plan on using soap with your boar and lathering directly on the puck; if you plan to use cream, plan on using a mug or lathering in your hand."
Many people prefer to bowl lather then there are those who find face-lathering better. Personally have yet to try face-lathering with creams. But it's been discussed to have been rather bit messy-even with boar. I use bowl or mugh in general. Due to fact the bristles aren't as flaccid as badger hair, there is less likelihood of driving air into the lather. Therefore, you can lather all day long in a bowl with a boar brush and wind up with strong lather. Further, if you find that your lather is too dry-perhaps much of the brush was shook before beginning the lather process. As they say it's always easy to add water but not other way around.
If you have a mug in which to rest the brush bristles-down, you will have less evaporation, which is what creates the "lather-eating" effect boar brushes are infamous for: the bristles absorb liquid and some of the cream as they dry out. By having the bristles rest in lather facing down, you reduce the evaporation effect and are less likely to need to add water or additional cream as the shave goes on.
Further, it's generally believed that Omega Pro brushes as well as 310xx series work great due to their size, which allows them to hold onto plenty lather without so much as drying or evaporating.
I'm not trying to convert any zealous badger fan more so provide information as well as gain experience with these brushes.
I haven't used much creams as I'm typically soap guy but
I have tried a variety of methods for producing, adding, subtracting, preserving, heating, and applying water and lather.
I have never had better, stronger lather than I get with boar and I can now replicate the lather with soaps and creams alike, with or without a scuttle or bowl, and have plenty of lather for 3-4 passes.
There is tendency to think of brushes as soap brushes or cream brushes, and in that aspect most would place boar with soap while badger with cream.
In summation, boar without question is better with both soaps and creams than its badger counterpart. Nevertheless, I still like and will continue to use badger in my rotation. Boar in general will be the work horse.
Here's a video by Zach demonstrating
the amount of water boar and badger hold. The main point here is that, while badger certainly holds more water
than boar, it does not hold on to it the way boar would.
Dry
Col. Conk Pure by Vulfix 0.16
Omega 49 Boar 0.14
Wet
Col. Conk > 0.20
Omega 49 > 0.18
Damp
Omega 49 > 0.16
Col. Conk > 0.16
Absorbtion
Omega 49 > 0.02
Col. Conk > 0.0
Mike custom group ( www.customk9gear.com/ )
birdeye
angle
front
Brushes
Boar
Custom by Mike
Pawn Cocobolo Ebony
Ht: 107 mm Loft: 60 mm Base: 67 mm Knot: 18 mm
Cocobolo short brush
Ht: 105 mm Loft: 60 mm Base: 45 mm Knot: 20 mm
Laminated wood ( pending knot )
Ht: NA mm Loft: NA mm Base: 50 mm Knot: mm
Boreal #323 - THE EXFOLIATOR - Banded Boar - 4
Boreal #977 - Pro Model
BOREAL 979 - Banded Boar
HJM
Koh-I-Noor #077J Banded Boar
Omega #10275 Banded Boar - 2
Omega #21047 Banded Boar - 3
Omega #31020 Banded Boar
Omega #31025 Banded Boar
Omega #31064 Banded Boar
Omega #31703 Banded Boar
Omega #40033 - Mighty Midget - 2
Omega #50014 - TurnBack Travel Brush
Omega #50068 "Bambino" Boar - 2
Omega #71278 - Commemorative Boar Ltd Ed.
Omega #80257 Banded Boar
Omega #80265 Banded Boar
Omega #31054 81054 - Banded Boar
Omega #31056 81056 Banded Boar
Semogue 1470 Shaving Brush
Van Der Hagen
Badger
Custom by Mike - 3
Specs:
From Miguel at www.customk9gear.com/
MM928 Silver
The black veined rook is made of Black and white ebony and measures the tallest at 3 3/4
HT: 157mm Loft: 58mm Base: 99mm Knot: 22mm
MM928 Silver
The red and goldish/tan rook with reddish veining measures 3 1/2 and is made of Marble wood ( though I may have mislabeled it as cheaper zebra wood) .
HT: 151mm Loft: 62mm Base: 89mm Knot: 24mm
MM928 Silver
the last one is made of beautiful and expensive Holy Land Olive wood and measures 3 1/4inches and has a small bocote inlay on its base.
HT: 147mm Loft: 62mm Base: 85mm Knot: 26mm
Omega SilverTip #599
Omega SilverTip #615
Simpsons BEAUFORT - Pure Badger Shaving Brush
Simpsons CASE - Best Badger
Simpsons WEE SCOT - Best Badger Shaving Brush
Vulfix 404 Grosvenor Mixed Badger and Boar Shaving Brush
Vulfix #2273 Super Badger Travel
Vulfix 2006 - Mixed Badger and Boar Loft
Boar: 32
Badger: 11 ( 5 Best/Silver, 2 Best, 2 Mixed loft, 1 Pure )
Total = 43 ( 53 w/ multiples )
The soaps:
Col. Conk Bayrum
De Vergulde Hand
Dr. Harris
Kell's
Mitchell's Wool Fat
Ogallala Bay Rum
Olivia ( www.olivia-seife.de/ )
TABAC
The Gentleman's Quarter ( TGQ )
The Shave Den Subzero
Valobra Menthol
Van Der Hagen
William Marvy
The creams:
Alraz the Atom Bomb
CarrieM
C.O. Bigelow
Olivia
Taylor of Old Bond Street
The Shave Den Subzero
The Cremo Cream
Might be acquiring few soaps here and there and add accordingly.